For the Leonard Christmas Vacation 2012, we chose Prague and Vienna for our
travels.
Prague
Absolutely beautiful place. The Christmas Markets are closer together and make it easier to travel around the center of the city. We enjoyed walking through the mix of old and new. Excellent food and beer!
Vienna
Many of the smaller markets in
Vienna close on Dec 23rd and so we missed them in 2011. In order to see more Christmas Markets, we decided to
travel earlier.
The Christmas Market Spittelberg
was our favorite. It is a funky little market that winds through the
streets of the neighborhood. We loved the food, people, and crafts in
this market.
Our next favorite was the Christmas Market at Karlskirche.
This market focuses on European arts and crafts and the church made an
excellent backdrop.
We went to many more markets and had a wonderful
time. Vienna is our favorite Christmas destination, our Christmas mug collection is out of hand, and we have so many wonderful memories!
Lively in Bulgaria
Communication, culture, & food critique with a dollup of expat angst and awe!
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Lists keep me focused!
In order to not miss a description of our travels, I am utilizing the power of the LIST. Hopefully, this will remind me to post! So, here is a list of the places we have traveled that I have yet to post about. Crossed out names now have entries!
2011
Skopje, Macedonia
2012
Munich, Germany
Istanbul, Turkey
Prague, Czech Republic
Vienna, Austria.
Bulgaria: Plovdiv, Melnik (Zlatoleest), Veliko Turnovo, Varna, Nessebar, Asenovgrad, Leshten, Kovachavitsa, Ognyanovo, and Seven Lakes of Rila.
2013
Budva, Kotor, & Herzig Novi Montengro
Belgrade, Serbia
Paris, France
Manchester & Lake District, United Kindgom
Thessaloniki, Greece
Tirana, Albania
Budapest, Hungary
2011
Skopje, Macedonia
2012
Munich, Germany
Istanbul, Turkey
Bulgaria: Plovdiv, Melnik (Zlatoleest), Veliko Turnovo, Varna, Nessebar, Asenovgrad, Leshten, Kovachavitsa, Ognyanovo, and Seven Lakes of Rila.
2013
Budva, Kotor, & Herzig Novi Montengro
Belgrade, Serbia
Paris, France
Manchester & Lake District, United Kindgom
Thessaloniki, Greece
Tirana, Albania
Budapest, Hungary
Leonard Christmas Vacation 2011: Vienna!
WOW, time flies when you are ignoring your blog! Now that I feel like posting again, I figure I should finish our story of Christmas trip 2011.
When we mentioned to folks that we were headed to Vienna for Christmas we were warned that the town shuts down for Christmas. After seeing how Bratislava closes up, we were a bit concerned as we boarded the bus for Vienna. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find quite a vibrant Christmastime in Vienna. We found a great list of the Christmas Markets with the opening/closing times and Underground stops nearby. The tourist information also included restaurants and entertainment that was open after Dec 24. While we did miss many of the Christmas Markets, we could see the bigger markets like Rathauspark, Schonbrunn, and Praterstern. These gave us a great view of different styles of markets.
Rathauspark is the market that turns up most in pictures from tourists and is probably the largest and most commercial. All of the food is huge: giant donuts and pretzels the size of your head, huge sausages, and candy galore. It took some doing, but we also found the booth with the best punch (best being strongest!). Good thing we had all that food!
Schonbrunn is the more traditional market with fewer Christmas lights, more bows of greenery and a beautiful palace and grounds to tour. It was a cold day with a clear blue sky and the grounds were breathtaking even is the dormant state. We didn't go into the palace, instead choosing to walk around the grounds. The punch was good and the baked potatoes with tons of toppings helped nourish us for the walks.
Finally, Praterstern is an amusement park and the market is in the entrance of the park. We were able to ride the enclosed car Ferris Wheel revealed a beautiful panoramic view of Vienna. We were getting a bit worn out on Christmas Markets by this time, but it was fun to tour the museum to the Ferris Wheel that is at the base of the ride.
In terms of restaurants, there was quite a lot of choice. We were very lucky to eat at Der Kuckuk with no reservations. I had tried to email the restaurant Christmas morning, but there was no reservation when we went to the restaurant that night. Luckily they squeezed us in at the overflow table toward the front of the restaurant. The meal was amazing and the cozy, wine-cellar shaped restaurant was overflowing with good cheer. Overall, our trip to Vienna in 2011 was amazing and marked the city in our minds as a place for a return visit.
When we mentioned to folks that we were headed to Vienna for Christmas we were warned that the town shuts down for Christmas. After seeing how Bratislava closes up, we were a bit concerned as we boarded the bus for Vienna. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find quite a vibrant Christmastime in Vienna. We found a great list of the Christmas Markets with the opening/closing times and Underground stops nearby. The tourist information also included restaurants and entertainment that was open after Dec 24. While we did miss many of the Christmas Markets, we could see the bigger markets like Rathauspark, Schonbrunn, and Praterstern. These gave us a great view of different styles of markets.
Rathauspark Christmas Market 2011 |
Rathauspark is the market that turns up most in pictures from tourists and is probably the largest and most commercial. All of the food is huge: giant donuts and pretzels the size of your head, huge sausages, and candy galore. It took some doing, but we also found the booth with the best punch (best being strongest!). Good thing we had all that food!
Schonbrunn 2011 |
Schonbrunn is the more traditional market with fewer Christmas lights, more bows of greenery and a beautiful palace and grounds to tour. It was a cold day with a clear blue sky and the grounds were breathtaking even is the dormant state. We didn't go into the palace, instead choosing to walk around the grounds. The punch was good and the baked potatoes with tons of toppings helped nourish us for the walks.
Praterstern 2011 |
Finally, Praterstern is an amusement park and the market is in the entrance of the park. We were able to ride the enclosed car Ferris Wheel revealed a beautiful panoramic view of Vienna. We were getting a bit worn out on Christmas Markets by this time, but it was fun to tour the museum to the Ferris Wheel that is at the base of the ride.
In terms of restaurants, there was quite a lot of choice. We were very lucky to eat at Der Kuckuk with no reservations. I had tried to email the restaurant Christmas morning, but there was no reservation when we went to the restaurant that night. Luckily they squeezed us in at the overflow table toward the front of the restaurant. The meal was amazing and the cozy, wine-cellar shaped restaurant was overflowing with good cheer. Overall, our trip to Vienna in 2011 was amazing and marked the city in our minds as a place for a return visit.
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Leonard Christmas Vacation 2011 part 2: Beautiful Bratislava
Bratislava Old Town Christmas Market |
The notes I had found about the Vienna airport made it seem like it would be pretty straightforward to find the bus company to get tickets for the bus to Bratislava, Slovakia. After getting through the passport check, changing some money, and a few false starts down wrong hallways, we figured out how to read the signs and headed out to the front of the airport. We found the sign for the bus company and were prepared to mime our need for tickets. If you only speak one language with a smattering of menu French, Spanish, German, Italian (Mark and I are pretty fluent in restaurants. We couldn't negotiate peace throughout the world, but we could host a great party!), it helps to be willing to make a fool of yourself with a Marcel Marceau impression. Luckily for the beautiful Austrian desk clerk she spoke perfect English and our alternative communication skills were not needed. A few Euro later, we were on the bus and heading to Bratislava.
The bus is very warm and comfortable and I tried to stay awake as we went through sleepy Austrian villages on our way to Bratislava. For those of a trivia mind, Vienna and Bratislava are the closest national capitals in the world; only 40 miles/64 km between them. Though it was night, we were able to see this huge bus navigate the tiny European streets. There was an arch commemorating something, our menu German failed us in translating what, that did not seem to be big enough for the bus. In an effort to make the bus smaller, I scooted closer to Mark. That must have helped, because we made it through.
After an uneventful bus ride, we arrived in Bratislava. Again my notes said it would be a short walk to the hotel, couldn't miss it, easy as pie given the location of the bus stop. After the day I had, I was skeptical. We looked around and thought we could see the pedestrian area mentioned in my notes just across the on ramp to the highway. We headed across the on ramp and sure enough our hotel was in sight! I was SO happy that something went right that day. It is possible that there were some places open for dinner, but we were just too worn out at 10:00pm to bother. We checked into the hotel, found our room with a view of the Danube, nibbled on the snacks our landlady gave us in Sofia, and then fell asleep hopeful that tomorrow would be a better day.
Cafe front from Christmas Market |
The square outside wasn't this busy when we were there in the morning, but as you can see it soon was hopping with locals and some tourists. There wasn't much snow, but it was freezing. We survived by drinking hot chocolate inside the most wonderfully warm cafe.
Very cold Leonards |
Best hot chocolate ever! |
Inside Warm Cafe |
Mark with provisions! |
Tasty! |
We enjoyed Bratislava and it was a good thing we decided to start there as the Old Town area pretty much shuts down on Dec 24th. We were lucky to find a place for breakfast and then we were off to Vienna. The talk before we left is that Vienna also shuts down for the Christmas holiday. We were trusting my internet research that showed some activities still available, but we also had a comfy hotel with a good breakfast so that if nothing was open we could at least survive. The worst case scenario would have us walking around Vienna enjoying the architecture and nature. To find out, come back for Leonard Christmas Vacation 2011 part 3: Vienna.
Monday, August 27, 2012
Christmas in August?...Leonard Christmas Vacation 2011 part 1
This winter I missed the window to post about our Christmas travels (I figure it is like the decorations, they just feel wrong if they are up too long). Then I came up with the idea for posting in July ala Christmas in July craziness. Then July became August and well anyway here it is, the extended 3 part version of the Leonard Christmas Vacation 2011!
The first installment of our tale begins with waking up to a snow storm in progress on the day we are to leave. The picture above is the light beginning of what became a code yellow storm across our region of Bulgaria. The 12 or so inches of snow on the gutter outside the window caused a bit of panic, but we set off for the bus station determined to make it to Sofia for our flight. For some insane reason, I thought we should walk the 30 minutes in the driving snow rather than get a cab to the bus station. This happens some times when I get into trip mode. I had planned for us to walk and so we would walk.
We arrived to the bus station on time, but we were very cold and tired. Never will I do that again (I hope!). We had taken the bus between Blagoevgrad and Sofia before and so we were not worried about it today. Unfortunately, we had the time wrong for the large bus and so the only bus there was the mini-bus that travels between the ski regions here (Sofia-Bansko). The mini-bus is essentially a 15 person passenger van and not the most comfortable ride, but we were worried about waiting for the next big bus.
The trip was a bit harrowing with the blowing snow and icy roads, but the mini-bus made pretty good time. About 20 km outside of Sofia the driver received a phone call and then we pulled off the road into a gas station. We sat there for a few minutes trying to figure out what was going on. The road was still open and filled with cars. The bus driver spoke no English and we only had our Bulgarian phrasebook and weren't sure we would understand the answer even if we could ask "Why have we stopped." We got a bit more nervous when one of the passengers and his small daughter got out of the mini-bus and went to the road to hitchhike into Sofia. Another English speaking passenger asked us if we knew what was going on. We had no idea, but decided to try to work it out the three of us. About 15 minutes passed and it was cold in the mini-bus so we (the English speakers) followed the bus driver and the other Bulgarian passenger inside the gas station.
After a few minutes of WTF, we decided to see if anyone spoke English in the gas station and could find out what was going on. We found someone to ask and he approached the driver, spoke to him for a moment, and then walked off. Apparently we needed to be more specific in our request and make it clear that not only did we want him to talk to the bus driver and find out what was going on but to then TELL US what he learned. I really had to work hard not to laugh at this point. I was also getting worried that we would miss our flight to Austria. Finally I had the brainstorm of calling our landlady and getting her boyfriend (who was fluent in Bulgarian and English) to do some translating for us.
The strange miming that Mark had to do to get the bus driver to talk on the phone was rather hilarious, but at this point I think a mild panic might have set in and I was a bit unhinged. We finally found out that the bus company pulled him off the road because the bus depot in Sofia was packed and the roads were very busy. We were waiting for a phone call allowing him to get back on the road. At this point, there was no way we could make it to the bus station and then to the airport to make our flight. A plan was hatched to get us to a different point and then our landlady would drive us to the airport.
Talk about trains, planes, and automobiles. We were dropped off at the Metro Underground train station with our English speaking tag-along all trying to make our flights. We took the Metro to a stop closer to the airport, but found out that our landlady's car was snowed in. They said to grab a cab and if we had troubles they would come help us out. Our tag-along had to be at the other terminal for an earlier flight, so we gave the first cab to him. Never found out if he made it, but I would like to think someone did. We couldn't find an unoccupied cab until our landlady and her boyfriend found us and helped us on our way. They were really sweet and brought us some Christmas goodies to take on our trip.
The cab sped away to the airport, but traffic was horrible. We had 40 minutes until our flight was due to leave and on a good day that would have been more than enough. As soon as we got to the airport, we ran to the check-in desk hoping to still make the flight. They looked up our information, made a phone call, looked at our information again, and asked if I was the only one flying. I seriously considered it for a moment, and then said no, it was both of us. At this point, they looked genuinely sad to tell us that we missed the flight and would have to go to the sales desk to reschedule a later flight. I am not proud to say that I had a bit of a flip out when I was told how much it would cost to reschedule. So much for the supersaver tickets I scored online. Rather than rescheduling immediately, we went to the cafe for me to calm down and get some information.
For those of you who know me, you know I love having as much information as possible when we change plans and I wanted to make sure we would make the next leg of our journey if we rescheduled for that day or if we needed to just book for the next day. I didn't want to get out of Sofia and then be stranded in Austria for a night. This is where Mark came to the rescue. Well Mark and wifi. We found out that the bus to Bratislava ran quite late in the evening and we should have no trouble on that end. Calmed down with some hot tea and good information, we rescheduled our flights and settled in for a 5 hour wait for the next flight. It took me actually getting on the bus to Bratislava to calm down and believe that our travel adventure was successful.
Looking back, it is easy to say "well this is Bulgaria," but that is too simplistic. After traveling extensively and reliably through Bulgaria on the bus and train systems this year, I believe the problem began in part with my stubbornness to save a few dollars and take the bus when we had a scheduled flight AND with the mini-bus company. We have heard many stories about their incompetence and plan never to use them again. Now we either schedule a private car or head out the night before when flying. The first part of our trip resulted in a valuable learning experience and a rather funny story!
Come back for Part 2: Beautiful Bratislava!
The first installment of our tale begins with waking up to a snow storm in progress on the day we are to leave. The picture above is the light beginning of what became a code yellow storm across our region of Bulgaria. The 12 or so inches of snow on the gutter outside the window caused a bit of panic, but we set off for the bus station determined to make it to Sofia for our flight. For some insane reason, I thought we should walk the 30 minutes in the driving snow rather than get a cab to the bus station. This happens some times when I get into trip mode. I had planned for us to walk and so we would walk.
We arrived to the bus station on time, but we were very cold and tired. Never will I do that again (I hope!). We had taken the bus between Blagoevgrad and Sofia before and so we were not worried about it today. Unfortunately, we had the time wrong for the large bus and so the only bus there was the mini-bus that travels between the ski regions here (Sofia-Bansko). The mini-bus is essentially a 15 person passenger van and not the most comfortable ride, but we were worried about waiting for the next big bus.
The trip was a bit harrowing with the blowing snow and icy roads, but the mini-bus made pretty good time. About 20 km outside of Sofia the driver received a phone call and then we pulled off the road into a gas station. We sat there for a few minutes trying to figure out what was going on. The road was still open and filled with cars. The bus driver spoke no English and we only had our Bulgarian phrasebook and weren't sure we would understand the answer even if we could ask "Why have we stopped." We got a bit more nervous when one of the passengers and his small daughter got out of the mini-bus and went to the road to hitchhike into Sofia. Another English speaking passenger asked us if we knew what was going on. We had no idea, but decided to try to work it out the three of us. About 15 minutes passed and it was cold in the mini-bus so we (the English speakers) followed the bus driver and the other Bulgarian passenger inside the gas station.
After a few minutes of WTF, we decided to see if anyone spoke English in the gas station and could find out what was going on. We found someone to ask and he approached the driver, spoke to him for a moment, and then walked off. Apparently we needed to be more specific in our request and make it clear that not only did we want him to talk to the bus driver and find out what was going on but to then TELL US what he learned. I really had to work hard not to laugh at this point. I was also getting worried that we would miss our flight to Austria. Finally I had the brainstorm of calling our landlady and getting her boyfriend (who was fluent in Bulgarian and English) to do some translating for us.
The strange miming that Mark had to do to get the bus driver to talk on the phone was rather hilarious, but at this point I think a mild panic might have set in and I was a bit unhinged. We finally found out that the bus company pulled him off the road because the bus depot in Sofia was packed and the roads were very busy. We were waiting for a phone call allowing him to get back on the road. At this point, there was no way we could make it to the bus station and then to the airport to make our flight. A plan was hatched to get us to a different point and then our landlady would drive us to the airport.
Talk about trains, planes, and automobiles. We were dropped off at the Metro Underground train station with our English speaking tag-along all trying to make our flights. We took the Metro to a stop closer to the airport, but found out that our landlady's car was snowed in. They said to grab a cab and if we had troubles they would come help us out. Our tag-along had to be at the other terminal for an earlier flight, so we gave the first cab to him. Never found out if he made it, but I would like to think someone did. We couldn't find an unoccupied cab until our landlady and her boyfriend found us and helped us on our way. They were really sweet and brought us some Christmas goodies to take on our trip.
The cab sped away to the airport, but traffic was horrible. We had 40 minutes until our flight was due to leave and on a good day that would have been more than enough. As soon as we got to the airport, we ran to the check-in desk hoping to still make the flight. They looked up our information, made a phone call, looked at our information again, and asked if I was the only one flying. I seriously considered it for a moment, and then said no, it was both of us. At this point, they looked genuinely sad to tell us that we missed the flight and would have to go to the sales desk to reschedule a later flight. I am not proud to say that I had a bit of a flip out when I was told how much it would cost to reschedule. So much for the supersaver tickets I scored online. Rather than rescheduling immediately, we went to the cafe for me to calm down and get some information.
For those of you who know me, you know I love having as much information as possible when we change plans and I wanted to make sure we would make the next leg of our journey if we rescheduled for that day or if we needed to just book for the next day. I didn't want to get out of Sofia and then be stranded in Austria for a night. This is where Mark came to the rescue. Well Mark and wifi. We found out that the bus to Bratislava ran quite late in the evening and we should have no trouble on that end. Calmed down with some hot tea and good information, we rescheduled our flights and settled in for a 5 hour wait for the next flight. It took me actually getting on the bus to Bratislava to calm down and believe that our travel adventure was successful.
Looking back, it is easy to say "well this is Bulgaria," but that is too simplistic. After traveling extensively and reliably through Bulgaria on the bus and train systems this year, I believe the problem began in part with my stubbornness to save a few dollars and take the bus when we had a scheduled flight AND with the mini-bus company. We have heard many stories about their incompetence and plan never to use them again. Now we either schedule a private car or head out the night before when flying. The first part of our trip resulted in a valuable learning experience and a rather funny story!
Come back for Part 2: Beautiful Bratislava!
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Catching up on BG Travels: Razlog 2011
Mountain view east from resort outside Razlog, Bulgaria |
Razlog is a small mountain valley town in Bulgaria close to the more popular ski destination Bankso. The resort outside of Razlog is possibly very active during the ski or golf season, but in early November it is a modern day ghost town. A casualty of the financial crash and the vacuum of British investments, most of the hotels here are in varying states of completion. Despite the majestic vistas, the place feels more like a set of a post-apocalyptic horror flick than a vibrant ski/golf community. The pictures of the completed buildings below give the sense of what it could be if situations turn around.
Signs of recently renewed construction seem to suggest that there is still hope for this area. We had intended to visit Razlog during ski season, but with the worst winter in 50 years we tired quickly of cold and a ski vacation did not sound fun. Hopefully this year the weather will be good for skiing but not miserable in Blagoevgrad and then we can visit again and report back on any changes.
View looking west..Razlog in the valley |
Monday, May 7, 2012
First Year as an Academic Writing Professor DONE!
Teaching academic writing to freshman ESL students confirmed the attitude I developed for grammar in my high school freshman English class - it is out to get me. The only way I survive is by taking a pragmatic approach focusing on readability rather than stiff rules. Luckily there are a number of great English teachers out there who are breaking out of the grammar police mold and so I can say I am in good company. It still takes me a long time to grade essays to confirm why something doesn't sound right and what the correct choice should be.
My grading paradigm can be summed up in three phrases: Scooby Doo, pet peeves, and bad habits. The Scooby Doo approach to grading writing is when something I read makes me go "rut ro" in the classic Scooby Doo voice. When this occurs I circle or underline the problem and then check the rule books for the explanation why. Having taught senior and graduate courses that are writing intensive, I have developed a series of pet peeves about student writing. Teaching freshman has become my way of attacking the problems at the root. Finally, I notice all of my own bad writing habits and hear the voices of my teachers as I grade. I love commas and use them like Bulgarian's use parsley - all over the place whether they are needed or not. I know this about myself and try to practice restraint. Therefore, I am sensitive to students with the same problem. And by sensitive I mean brutal with the marking pen (have to break them of the habit early so they don't become me). That/Which is another problem of mine. There are some great blog posts out there about That/Which, but I still have to check every time I grade.
I am not sure if I am becoming a better writer in the process, but teaching freshman to write in an academic style does not feel like torture. There are some great changes I want to make for next year and I am anxious to try them out. It takes teaching something twice for me to get a feel for my attitude toward it, so look forward to my post a year from now. I might just be a grammar convert!
My grading paradigm can be summed up in three phrases: Scooby Doo, pet peeves, and bad habits. The Scooby Doo approach to grading writing is when something I read makes me go "rut ro" in the classic Scooby Doo voice. When this occurs I circle or underline the problem and then check the rule books for the explanation why. Having taught senior and graduate courses that are writing intensive, I have developed a series of pet peeves about student writing. Teaching freshman has become my way of attacking the problems at the root. Finally, I notice all of my own bad writing habits and hear the voices of my teachers as I grade. I love commas and use them like Bulgarian's use parsley - all over the place whether they are needed or not. I know this about myself and try to practice restraint. Therefore, I am sensitive to students with the same problem. And by sensitive I mean brutal with the marking pen (have to break them of the habit early so they don't become me). That/Which is another problem of mine. There are some great blog posts out there about That/Which, but I still have to check every time I grade.
I am not sure if I am becoming a better writer in the process, but teaching freshman to write in an academic style does not feel like torture. There are some great changes I want to make for next year and I am anxious to try them out. It takes teaching something twice for me to get a feel for my attitude toward it, so look forward to my post a year from now. I might just be a grammar convert!
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